Hawke's Bay

We were lucky to have a 3 day weekend last week and we took the opportunity to visit Hawke's Bay which is one of the 3 main wine areas in New Zealand. As we drove we noticed the topography changing, somewhat flatter, warmer, and sunnier. In fact, we had sun for the entire weekend. I think everyone else in the country did too, but we felt like we were in paradise. We stayed in a bed and breakfast in Napier, the "art deco" city which rebuilt itself after a 1931 earthquake ("the largest natural disaster New Zealand has ever seen"). This city is very quaint, built on a hill, overlooking the ocean, and many of the building facades are in the classic art deco style. Lots of good restaurants and little shops. But the main reason for our visit was the vino!! There are loads of wineries around here, some really tiny, some large. We signed up to rent some bikes from a place called "Ye Olde Winery" and cycled around the area, tasting wine as we went. As you can imagine, after a few wineries, we became quite slow, lounging around, eating cheese, tasting olive oils, sitting in the sun. We found some great wines, and the bike company goes around and picks up your wine for you so you don't have to try to bike around with it. It's crafty actually...you don't realize just how many bottles of wine you have bought...It was the most fun we've had in a while....

We also had some nice dinners, one at M.E.D, which is a mediterranean restaurant, where we were served by a guy from Oklahoma! The next night we ate at a French Restaurant called on the bay. Yum. Very rich.

We also drove up Te Mata Peak which is a very large hill, overlooking the whole of Hawke's Bay. You can also see all of the surrounding mountain ranges, including Ruapehu! The valley is full of rolling green hills, and apparently has nice thermal air which leads a lot of people to paraglide off the cliff...This looks amazing, and is on our list of things to do. After a lazy picnic in the sun we headed off to Cape Kidnappers to go down the beach on the back of a tractor to see the Gannet colony. New Zealand has 3 colonies of Gannets (which are birds) who nest ever year starting around August. The little ones hatch starting in mid-November, then come February the chicks take off on their first flight all the way to Australia. Most die on route, but those who don't eventually come back to nest on this cape. The birds are partnered for life, and they claim the exact spot for their nesting every year, for about 25 years! The male and female share the responsibility for guarding the nest, and they have interesting patterns of behavior with each other...lots of necking. You'll see. The cape itself is beautiful, and a geologists dream (of which I am definitely not, but still, interesting). You can see all the layers of sediment, and you can even see the fault lines evidencing prior earthquakes where the earth shifted. It was a great trip. Highly recommend it.

We hit the Hastings farmer's market, then headed out to the ocean to enjoy the sun.. What a life.

Whakatau

Last week the hospital had an official "whakatau" or welcome for its new doctors. This was done in traditional Maori fashion, as a way to welcome us to the community. The protocols used are essentially what is done when going to a marae or meeting house. I'll try to describe the process. We entered the room as a group (with a Maori representative since we don't know the protocols) and the elder woman from the welcoming group called out in song. The woman in our group answered and they went back and forth for awhile until we entered into the room and sat down, the men in front of the women ("to protect the potential future generations"). The elder from the welcoming family speaks first, and this was a local Maori elder who is involved with the hospital board. He has a very long name, which I could not hope to remember, but he says "most people call me uncle Bill". He gave quite a long speech in Maori, then translated into English. He was essentially extending his gratitude for us caring for his people and hoping that we stay. It was quite touching. In return, a member of our group was to respond, this was Sachin since he was the only male in our group. He spoke in Gujarati (they were very keen on people using their native language) and introduced all of us in the group. We then sang together and greeted each person in the group with the hongi, which is when you press noses and foreheads with the person you are greeting. It is in this way you share the breath of life or your essence given by Atua (God) with eachother. We finished by sharing tea and biscuts and getting to know eachother. All in all, it was a very welcoming and touching experience.

Maybe there really ARE Hobbits in New Zealand...

Prior to coming here, I spoke with several people who lived and worked in New Zealand, several of whom had families. They specifically told me that "our children love it here...they go to school barefoot..." Odd. But maybe they lived out in the country or something. Then, over the past 6 weeks, everywhere I go, I see barefoot children. Walking in their school uniforms...barefoot. Walking in the grocery store with their parents...barefoot. And not only children. I see adults, and not just the dreadlocked hippies in their campervans...There were patients waiting for the pharmacy to open in the hospital...barefoot! I also saw a half barefoot man, one shoe on, one shoe off, walking into the Warehouse (equivalent of Home Depot). I have nothing against barefeet, mind you, but I really don't understand what the appeal is of walking around wet, dirty streets or cold hospital floors without shoes. I started to think...well maybe these people can't afford shoes. But in every other way they appear well accounted for. It is just the Kiwi way I guess. I myself will save the barefoot days for the beach....not a true kiwi yet....

Observations...

Where are all the limes? There seems to be an abundance of lemons, but limes are nowhere to be seen. I think we've taken for granted limes in the U.S. We used them all the time without even thinking. Now when we make guacamole, we have to use lemons! Sacrilege! The rumor is that if you do find a lime, it will cost you $10. Probably an exaggeration but still. We will be looking, and when we find them, we are buying in bulk.

My second observation today is in regards to mental health. We have learned that depression, domestic violence, psychiatry in general, are taboo topics in the kiwi culture. If we bring them up as concerned physicians, we end up offending and angering patients...It seems as though people are being treated for mental illness, but it is not spoken about or labeled as such. One interesting story in the news is that the ACC (accident compensation corporation) which usually pays for full care after accidents or injuries, only wants to pay for care of people who have been sexually assaulted if there is proof that they are "suffering from mental illness" after the fact. Crazy! And since, no one wants to believe that there is mental illness in NZ, no one will get any care. Lot of room for growth anyways. Makes us appreciate the u.s. a little bit more where I think there have been great efforts to destigmatize mental illness. Cultural lessons....

The herd of peacocks...

And another...

The sheep are thinking "who is this crazy woman and why is she running around?"

The Sky Swing

Strapped in and heading up.










Waiting at the top...















Flying down....











Feeling exhilarated...

The view from the balcony at our "bach".